Spinnakers

Spinnakers is a bit of a Victoria legend. A gastro-pub before there was such a word in the trendy parts of London and a local craft brewer before local, micro-breweries were the rage in the CAMRA world. Every foodie tourist tells me about it. I went there in my first weeks in the city. As this combination has been going since about 1984, they must be doing something right.

Or something safe.

I last headed up there after a hockey game before Christmas to try out the Winter Ale and have a bite or two to eat. First the beer. I've had a wonderful pint in Spinnakers of there occasional brew, Doc Hadfield's Pale Ale. A light, refreshing, sessionable beer, with a wonderful clearness to it, served at cellar temperature (or "warm" as I'm constantly told English beer is). Non-chilled beer is great if it's designed to be drunk that way. BUT it's not always on the menu, and the last time I tried it, they had over hopped it, and screwed with it.

Which is unusual, as most Spinnakers beers are rather subtle, and don't have big flavours. They are eminently drinkable, but don't impose themselves on you. And that's the story with the Winter Ale. Promising "big ginger" and "cinnamon", it's certainly there. But it's not big. It's not a hugely warming pint. It's just... "not got any balls" as my erstwhile drinking companion says. It's safe.

The food... now the food is not safe. Not unsafe as in unhygienic or undercooked. The chef's at Spinnakers tend to push the edges a bit. This does mean occasionally the food is odd (the inside-out Cornish Pasty I had two years ago was the biggest failure, but I could see what the chef was trying), but mostly it's good-to-exceptional.

On this last trip I ordered the Pork Schnitzel, which came served on a bed of noodles with a side of greens. Perfectly cooked with a nice crisp covering. The noodles were perfectly al dente, and the creamy sauce was neither heavy or an after thought. Greens are greens. Until you get them wrong. Spinnakers didn't. There was also a plate of Albacore Tuna Salad ordered. Tuna was nicely seared on the outside, but still pink and most on the inside, with a good heaping of local greens and shoots.

A jumbo plate of nachos was also ordered for the table, with a good generous portion of Pulled Pork. Now, I don't like nachos. They are often too oily and cheesey for me. Or the tortilla chips are tasteless. Or justbadly prepared with only half of them having any toppings. This was good nachos. Plenty of toppings, lovely pulled pork, and easily enough for two or three or four to share. There was four, but two of us had had full dinners, so easily stretched.

The upstairs is always pretty laid back, and always great for a good long conversation and catch up, with, if your lucky, a view over the harbour during the summer. Downstairs is more restaurant driven, and the service is faster. Upstairs, they take there time... not that they don't know your there, but allow you to enjoy the beer, the company and the food and not trying to rush you out.

Location : 308 Catherine Street
Telephone : (250) - 386 - 2739
Website : http://www.spinnakers.com/